Italy! Let’s start on the Amalfi Coast

Beautiful. That pretty much sums it up. We began our stay at the locally famous Villa Murat with its incredible views and interesting history, and had an absolutely wonderful time. Not one day was a disappointment.  Even though we were in the small town of Annunziata, we were still only a few hundred yards from a Michelin Star restaurant run by a local family.

Our staff at the 17th century Villa, concierge Carla, caretaker Alex (Allesandro) and housekeeper Maddie were helpful, available, but never in the way – the mark of excellent and practiced service.

The Villa was known as the part-time residence of Gioacchino Murat, King of Naples who in 1808 reportedly planned a siege against the English to recapture the Island of Capri. With 5 bedrooms and 4 baths, the Villa was expansive and full of history with wonderfully kept grounds, a pool and numerous terraces. While its age shows, in a 17th century home that is exactly what should show – history, a sense of place, the passage of time. So while the water pressure wasn’t the greatest and the showers were a bit cramped, the Villa presented itself exactly as it should.

The little harbor below us in the small town of Massa Lubrense was charming with its fishing boats and small charter fleet from where we departed for our second full day on the water. We also had lunch there one day in a small family restaurant (it seems they are all small family restaurants) where the husband seated us and the wife cooked. I had the best lasagna I have ever had there, and Ryan made a life-long friend of our host when he wore his Napoli football jersey at the table. Exclamations, hugs, laughter and an invitation followed.

Sorrento, with its 20,000 residents, was much more of a tourist destination. Shops were everywhere, but this was a much more congenial and civilized sell than many places we have been (like Hong Kong or Mexico). The Mexicans appear both jaded and a little too anxious, almost desperate, while most Italians are much more cordial and pleasant; as much interested in simply conversing as anything. If your purchase doesn’t happen today, yours or someone else’s will tomorrow.

Our day at the private beach, called Captain Cook’s, was just plain relaxing. With less than a dozen attendees, we had the place virtually to ourselves. It was a multi-tiered affair carved from the rocky shore as is often typical along the Amalfi Coast. The tides don’t vary much here, so it’s easy to treat the rocks much like the edge of a pool – complete with stainless steel ladders and spots to dive in. And, once again, an excellent and uncrowded restaurant to have lunch. Our chauffeur to the beach, Franco, was also entertaining.

Driving was a fun adventure, and disregarding the  slight clip of one mirror from an on-coming car, without mishap. The first thing I noticed when we rented our car was how many had sideswipe markings; hmm, a word to the wise. Ron and I actually had a blast driving there; they move as if in a perpetual motion ballet. One must be aggressive, but patient; not hesitating, but not in a hurry.

The drive down the coast to Positano and Amalfi was ridiculously crowded and slow. It was entertaining to watch the buses pass each other ever so slowly on the narrow roads, while on the corners cars would sometimes have to back up to let the buses negotiate a turn. There were always open windows, exclamations to each other and hand gestures – and not the kind we see in the States. They were simply trying to negotiate passage by giving each other direction, haha. But we begin with our accommodations at the fabulous Villa Murat.

Villa Murat, locally well-known and originally the 17th century home of a prominent aristocrat. From here, Carla also arranged for a tour of Antonio Gargiulo’s Olive Factory. He was very entertaining. His 10 years in London taught him about free enterprise, so he was no fan of the Italian version of socialism – they take 51% of your gross, even if you don’t collect it or make a profit. So there are lots of cash transactions – like ours, with no receipt. But his olive oil is to die for. We packed a suitcase full of it. Afterward, I noticed his name was the same as that on the high-end woodworking store in Sorrento – could there be a connection?

Outside our villa we met up with Franco, a cordial, funny, constantly talking employee of The Church, to whose private beach he chauffeured us in his magnificent six (yes, six) passenger limousine. With his stylish sunglasses and slicked back silver hair, he produced a near non-stop, gravelly-voiced narrative of interesting sites, all the while managing to keep an unlit Italian pencil cigar hanging precariously from his lips. Franco made sure to inform us of every little side artifact we should observe on our drive to the beach. He was a wonderful character, and as he and our hostess Carla promised, the beach was very nice and very private.

In our next installment we will visit the village of Massa Lubrense and the town of Sorrento. Until then, Ciao!